Located right next to the Swig & Swine (third-best ribs I’ve ever had) on Rte. 17 in Charleston, The Glass Onion has a tough act to follow. It does just fine. The honey-touched cornbread alone would make this place. But it’s not alone, and thank God, because what comes after is manna from heaven.
The menu is narrow and eclectic, and it changes twice a day depending on what’s available. The chef buys ingredients fresh and they serve the magical results until they’re gone, which is often halfway through the first sitting — the way it ought to be.
One thing about an eclectic menu is that sometimes there’s a dish that won’t appeal to many. (Turnip bisque, for instance, tastes just as the name suggests, alas.) But that’s also the delight and continual joy of a place like this: There’s always something unique that you’ll never have heard of before and may never get the chance to try again (like those marvelous okra beignets!) Bottom line is there’s no reward ever without risk, and the rewards here are well worth it.
I want to take a moment to applaud the absolutely marvelous service. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable, and they’re eager to help with any request. It’s a delight to dine where the servers take pride in their food and their jobs, and here is just such a place. Thank you Emily, and thank you Lila: You’re wonderful.
I’d go on about the absolutely perfect fried green tomatoes, the excellent okra gumbo, or the desserts (!!!), but by now you’ve got the point: If you’re ever in Charleston, you need to eat here. Period; full stop.